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Richard McColl

~ Journalist-Author-Hotelier-Guide in Colombia

Richard McColl

Tag Archives: travelling on the Magdalena River

RIP Pablo’s Hippos

13 Friday Apr 2012

Posted by Richard in Journalism

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Tags

colombia, escobar, hacienda napoles, hippos in colombia, magdalena river, pablo escobar, pablo's hippos, pepe, pepe the hippo, puerto berrio, puerto triunfo, travelling on the Magdalena River

An astonishing and scarcely believable tale that reads as if plucked from the dense magic realism of Gabriel Garcia Marquez has become the content of urban myth and folklore, but, here we are to put the story straight, it’s all true.

The male and female fugitive hippos that escaped from Pablo Escobar’s former ranch Hacienda Napoles in Puerto Triunfo in August 2006 and their offspring born in the Colombian wilds have been hunted down, captured and one killed by Colombian bounty hunters.

Pepe, the 2000 kilo macho alpha was killed in June of 2009 not far from Puerto Berrío along the banks of the Magdalena River while public outrage in Colombia hit unprecedented new levels with record numbers signing on to voice their thoughts on the scandal on newspaper websites.

In order to fully understand this story we need to rewind a little and expose the bare facts. Prior to the notorious Cartel leader’s death on a rooftop in Medellin in 1993, Pablo “el papa de los pobres” Escobar, in a similar vein to many in his field of employment, lavished his dollars on outrageous and opulent spending sprees that were almost always of questionable taste.

One such spending spree resulted in his purchase and creation of the 8.4 sq mile Hacienda Napoles. Here, above the gates he placed the aircraft he used to smuggle cocaine into the US and within the compound he collected various exotic fauna such as giraffes, elephants, kangaroos and of course hippopotamuses.

13 years after his death, some of the animals had starved and died, others were adopted by zoos but the hippos had thrived becoming a family numbering 25, making this collection the largest wild grouping of the species outside of Africa.

By all accounts the fugitive hippos were thriving in the marshy environs of the Magdalena River, an area where the humidity is high and the temperature rarely dips beneath 32 degrees making it an ideal location for these animals. Only several months previous to these events I was covering this section of the Magdalena Medio and hoped to catch a glimpse of the creatures, luck was not on my side that day and it seems that I will no longer have the opportunity to see the incongruity of the hippo clan in central Colombia as plans were afoot to move them elsewhere.

The Government’s environment agency and local authorities pointed to problems of disease and destruction associated with the animals as their reasoning for the cull, a reasoning that did not sit well with a good quantity of locals and numerous Colombians.

Americamestiza on the El Espectador (www.elespectador.com) website said: “Pobre hipopotamo… un falso positivo…. el ejercito de colombia, como siempre.”

And Roberto Sanchez a fisherman from Puerto Berrío made the bold claim of having been within 20 meters of the beasts and not encountering any problems.

Given the mass outpouring of sympathy and growing bodies who demonstrated at the time outside the Governmental Environment Ministry’s offices in Bogota, new plans were hastily assembled. Offers came in from New York and Costa Rica but it was decided that, if finally captured, mother and child, would be moved to the zoo in Cali.

This would hopefully bring to an end another saga resulting from the late Pablo Escobar’s actions, and of course one not without its victim, Pepe another unfortunate victim of the drug kingpin’s excesses.

Enjoying Colombia’s Fluvial Route 66

27 Tuesday Mar 2012

Posted by Richard in Journalism, Journeys

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Tags

barrancabermeja, Barranquilla, colombia, Honda, jack kerouac, magdalena river, Neiva, official blogger, official blogger for Colombia, official bloggers, On the Road, river magdalena, Route 66, San Agustin, South America, Tatcoa, travel, travelling on the Magdalena River, yuma

Gushing, unstoppable and intrinsically linked to the creation of this country, the Rio Magdalena, Colombia’s most famous river essentially divides the country in half and makes for a varied itinerary along a course cut through its Andean spine. I guess if I could I would pen my fluvial inspired version and compilation of stories in homage to Kerouac’s “On the Road”. 

Why the Kerouac reference? Well, I consider the Magdalena River to be the Route 66 of Colombian rivers, passing through vast swathes of this country’s territory, the source of legends, a historical backdrop to everything that has taken place here, an environmental Geiger, and witness to the changing landscapes in as many as 11 Colombian departments. For the visitor who is like me interested in learning about Colombia’s history and geography, I strongly recommend studying the Magdalena River as 80 per cent of all of Colombia’s population live within reach of her.

Yuma

The pre-Columbian civilizations that inhabited the regions of the Magdalena Medio, roughly around the area that is now Barrancabermeja, referred to the river as “Yuma”. Obviously the Spanish conquistadores saw this river as a major connection from them from North to South on the continent and it was then named after Mary Magdalene. This would then become Colombia’s highway from the colonial period until into the early 20th century. The liberator of northern South America, Simon Bolivar would pass through the town of Mompós on many occasions as an obligatory stop on the Magdalena highway as he led his troops to victory in Boyacá and Caracas.

The Source

San Agustin really represents a vast area of terrain that is essentially a massive pre-Columbian burial ground. Most tours that take in the archeological parks in San Agustin to see the pre-Columbian anthropomorphic statues also take in the source of the Magdalena River. Here, where an effigy of the Virgin Mary has been placed, it is considered to be good luck to jump from one side of the river to the other. It is possible, but rest assured, some have perished.

the shaman and his two minders

Verdant to Desert

While Neiva and the Tatacoa desert are located in Huila, the same department as San Agustin, the geography couldn’t change more. From lush verdant rolling hills, Neiva is a hot lowland city that ushers in the Tatacoa desert near to the town of Villavieja. An ideal spot for star gazing, bird-watching and desert hikes.

Tierra Caliente near to Bogota

Located reasonably close to Bogota, Girardot and Melgar were formerly where the well-healed Bogotano would head for some sun. Now, fallen on less lucrative times and in the advent of cheaper air fares, these two destinations have become less attractive. Whitewater rafting and other pursuits are available.

City of Bridges

Colonial Honda is a remnant of a time past and is undergoing some much need restorations. For history buffs this city is an exciting point as this is the last navigable point on the Magdalena River as if flows from here some 950 miles north. In addition to the colonial and republican architecture there is also the Festival of the Subienda worth looking out for. Be sure to visit the Museo del Rio.

Oil

Colombia’s oil refinery, Barrancabermeja is an important hub along the river and an important source of commerce. From here you can catch boats known as chalupas from the Muelle El Yuma that will take you the five and a half hours to El Banco, Magadalena. I readily take advantage of this stretch on the river that offers a respite from endless bus journeys over poor roads. While on the subject of El Banco, the town isn’t much to look at but the Cumbia festival in June is considered a major event.

Tierra de Dios

Just an hour and a half by road from El Banco is one of Colombia’s best preserved most forgotten colonial towns. Recognized by UNESCO, Mompós is a must see destination for anyone remotely interested in the writings of Gabriel Garcia Marquez and the history of the independence of Colombia. Now a backwater offering fine silver jewelry and ecotourism Mompós’ colonial streets are most inviting.

Carnaval!

Barranquilla is the industrial powerhouse on the Caribbean coast, best known for its Carnaval celebrations. It is here, at the Bocas de Ceniza that the Magdalena reaches its estuary on the Caribbean ocean finishing her journey and passing through an unimaginable quantity of Colombian territory all the while defining her.

And so, I invite you to take a look at the map of Colombia and not only enjoy the varied geography and landscapes, but, like Kerouac crossing the United States, take in the change in attitudes and let it all roll by.

“And then we’ll all go off to sweet life, ‘cause now is the time and we all know time!”
― Jack Kerouac, On the Road

 

Enjoying Colombia’s Fluvial Route 66

 (This post first appeared as my third installment for the Colombia.Travel bloggers initiative seen here)

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