• Biography
  • Books
  • Contact
  • Freelance Articles
  • La Casa Amarilla
  • Other Work and Interviews

Richard McColl

~ Journalist-Author-Hotelier-Guide in Colombia

Richard McColl

Tag Archives: hikes in Bogota

Reclaiming my Hike in Bogota

30 Saturday Jun 2012

Posted by Richard in Journalism

≈ 4743 Commentshttp%3A%2F%2Fwww.richardmccoll.com%2Freclaiming-my-hike%2FReclaiming+my+Hike+in+Bogota2012-06-30+17%3A53%3A36Richardhttp%3A%2F%2Fwww.richardmccoll.com%2F%3Fp%3D474

Tags

bogota, bogota robbery, ernesto samper, hikes, hikes in Bogota, hiking in bogota, lucho garzon, quebrada la vieja, stay fit in bogota, things to do in Bogota

Bound, one gentleman pistol-whipped, threatened with death, more than a dozen hikers were mugged at gunpoint on my favourite hike in Bogota a few weeks ago. My immediate reaction was to campaign to reclaim this hike up the Quebrada la Vieja from the thugs that threatened to wrest it from us through force and intimidation.

I have written about this hike previously, both here on my blog and for Colombia.Travel and it is no exaggeration that it is one of my preferred activities in Bogota. I guess this hike represents a form of escapism and allows me to sweat, all the while filling my lungs – where possible – with the thin yet clean oxygen from the mountains above the Colombian capital city.

The reason for which I was not following the trail up the mountain on the Saturday when the robbery took place was simple. I had just, the day previously, driven 16 hours straight from Mompós where my hotel is located, all the way to Bogota. I was tired.

Ordinarily every single Saturday, without fail, I can be found between the hours of 6 and 7 in the morning striking out through the pine groves and patches of foxgloves up this area of land overseen by the Bogota waterworks company. And Monty, my Weimaraner and I are in good company.

Former President Ernesto Samper – also mentioned and featured in a previous blog – is a regular hiker, presumably to exercise his mottled huskie and trim a few pounds from his large frame. I have hiked alongside former Mayor of Bogota, Lucho Garzon and various other unnamed notables who are in the company of several bodyguards.

So, this makes me wonder how such a violent robbery as the aforementioned actually took place. This pathway up the mountain is secure, it is well-travelled and it is popular. Someone had to know and had to have informed the perpetrators that former President Samper would not have been hiking that day. His absence would of course have meant that there were few, if any, bodyguards and/or police officers covering the route.

In my mind there is no doubt that someone was well-informed.

But, then again the criminals were well organized too. They chose their victims and at gunpoint plucked them from the trail and made them walk to a secluded area where they could then rob them of their valuables. In all of the newspaper reports that came out in the national press regarding the incident there was no mention made of hikers with dogs being targeted.

For the first time since the robbery, I hiked up the Quebrada la Vieja with Monty. It was as usual, a wonderful and fitting start to a day that began with a low mist around the mountains and by the time we had reached the Cross, the sun shone down and revealed a handsome portrait of Bogota. It was easy to make out flights landing and taking off from El Dorado, traffic increasing – although muted by the distance – on the city’s main arteries. In short, what we could enjoy was the perfect image of a city rousing from its slumbers.

This time though there was a difference. I was watching the shadows to ensure no one was lurking in the tangle of new growth shrubbery and eucalyptus trees. And, I counted no less than 10 police officers stationed along the pathway. Of course, I am grateful for this new watch but it does take something away from the pastoral atmosphere I am looking to enjoy. And then, passing former President Samper on my descent, there was no mistaking him, as there were two police officers on horseback close behind.

How sad that it has come to this. But, I for one will admit that if the police presence is required to ensure our security, then so be it, I shall continue to hike the Quebrada la Vieja on my Saturdays in the city.

City Hiking in Bogota

21 Tuesday Feb 2012

Posted by Richard in Journalism

≈ 1401 Commenthttp%3A%2F%2Fwww.richardmccoll.com%2Fcity-hiking-in-bogota%2FCity+Hiking+in+Bogota+2012-02-21+15%3A09%3A18Richardhttp%3A%2F%2Fwww.richardmccoll.com%2F%3Fp%3D140

Tags

bogota, colombia, hikes in Bogota, South America, travel official blogger, what do do in Bogota

In what seems like an event from another lifetime, I decided, after staring too long at the ubiquitous railings that are so synonymous with New York’s fire escapes, to take an urban hike through that city. Donning my well-worn boots, I laced up and headed out of my tenement in Washington Heights and struck out south down the entire length of Broadway. It was 11 miles in total all the way to the Ferry Terminal and took me about 5 hours given the inevitable delays at street crossings, construction, stopping to take photos and well, soaking up all of what New York has in profundity, character.

 

Bogota from above

 

And so, more or less a decade later, relocated to Bogota, I rejoice in the tall cerros (hills) that border the Eastern edge of the Colombian capital. Visible from my office, for me they represent another option to my version of the urban hike. But this time, there’s the possibility of escaping the belching fumes of the heavy traffic in a city. Just as I revel in taking my bicycle out of a Sunday during the ciclovia, I prefer my Saturday morning ascent of the cerros.

I check my backpack, snacks for my dog Monty, leash, water, and raincoat – after all, we are in Bogota and at 2600m above sea level anything can happen even on the sunniest of days – and then make for the point where the Calle 72 meets the Circunvalar.

 

Monty in the pine forest.

 

Monty already knows where we are headed. Predictably he strains at the leash even before we see the entrance to waterworks pathway that provides us with the access point to the mountain. Snap, off comes the clip and my raucous weimaraner is up and away springing over the stones, over rocks, into brooks and investigating the alpine style flowers in bloom.

Referred to locally as the Cerros Orientales, there is a maze of signposted pathways here that hikers can enjoy covering a forested area of just over 14,000 hectares and touching the city’s diverse regions and barrios of Usaquén, Chapinero, Santafé, San Cristóbal and Usme. I mean, you can get almost anywhere if you know how.

So different from Broadway, at times on the hike up the Quebrada de la Vieja, you feel boxed in by the narrowness and perilously slippery ascent. And, come on a Saturday and you are far from having this trail to yourself such is its popularity. I have seen students hiking off their guayabo (hangover), a former President trying to get in shape and appearing as if he could keel over and collapse at any instance, hard core trail runners, couples and of course the ubiquitous Bogotanas of a certain age sporting the all telling bombachon hairstyle.

 

Floxgloves

 

In short, there’s a true cross section of Bogotano society to be found on a Saturday morning hiking up the Cerros Orientales.

And then, the rules of the hike are in place, people are well meaning, courteous and interested. How different from when they are behind the wheel of their cars, in the queue at the bank or in the supermarket. All is forgotten, and once you have passed through stripped pines so bare that they seem to represent an arboreal cemetery, padded over the bed of pine needles, picked your way around muddy patches and stopped to gaze at the foxgloves and other wildflowers all the while enveloped in the strong scent of eucalyptus trees, you reach the summit.

And here, congregated after a short 45 minute to 1 hour hike are your companions, seated at the base of a Virgen, taking in the breathtaking view of the city. From up here the ills of Bogota are distant, there’s no sound of car horns, no buses careening along the Septima, or the accelerated feel of city living.

Steep in points but always manageable, this hike that shouldn’t take more than two hours in a round trip and serves as a reminder to me of what is available and how close you can be to nature in Bogota. The Avenida Caracas has never seemed so far away. For here, I come I clear my head and breathe in the fresh – albeit thinner – high altitude air and forget what is pending on my desk, my blackberry gets no signal and for a couple of preciously short hours, everything is fine.

(This blog first appeared on the www.colombia.travel website)

 

♣ Recent Posts

  • Poster Art in Colombia
  • Do I live in the “Most Criminal City in the World?”
  • Thoughts on Becoming a Bogota House-Husband
  • Reflections from Colombia on World Press Freedom Day
  • Old School Bogota: An Ode to the Venerable Traditional Cafe

Popular Posts

  • We are “Official Bloggers” for Colombia
  • Bogota, a Capital City in Beta Mode
  • Visiting Caño Cristales, Colombia
  • San Andres, Colombia’s Caribbean Package Tourism Destination
  • 6 Reasons Why it’s Better to Live in Latin America
  • Head On Collision on the Carrera Septima, Bogota

♣ most recent comments

  • rsnmccoll on Do I live in the “Most Criminal City in the World?”
  • Dan on Do I live in the “Most Criminal City in the World?”
  • rsnmccoll on Poster Art in Colombia
  • sfoswald on Poster Art in Colombia
  • rsnmccoll on Do I live in the “Most Criminal City in the World?”

Enter your email address to subscribe to this blog and receive notifications of new posts by email.

Join 3 other subscribers

Categories

  • Journalism (77)
  • Journeys (41)
  • la Casa Amarilla (12)

Proudly powered by WordPress Theme: Chateau by Ignacio Ricci.