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Richard McColl

~ Journalist-Author-Hotelier-Guide in Colombia

Richard McColl

Category Archives: Journeys

Thoughts on Becoming a Bogota House-Husband

08 Wednesday May 2013

Posted by Richard in Journalism, Journeys

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Tags

balancing journalism and family life, bogota, bogota house-husband, house-husband, househusband, journalist as a house husband, machismo in colombia, sexism in colombia, stay at home dad

Yesterday, May 7 2013, was the day it dawned on me that I had become a Bogota house-husband. My travels have taken me all over the world, but principally through Latin America, and in this bastion of machismo where the thick veins of sexism run deep, I have become an aeonian presence in our apartment, the citadel of marital contentment.

House Husband

House Husband

And I speak not of just one day where I had to prepare breakfast, busy myself with the dishes, cook and pack up a lunch for my wife to take to work, walk the dog three times, go to the supermarket to stock the fridge, do the laundry, fold it (I draw the line at ironing), organize the house a little bit and then ensure that the bills are paid…this has become a habit.

And yesterday was miserable. It rained all day in some shape or form in Bogota rendering the city impossible. Truly abysmal weather. I remember how it was when I commuted from west London to Godalming, first on my bike and then hopping on the train at Clapham Junction for the rest of the journey into the well-healed suburbs of the capital. Were it raining and grey – as is the norm from October to May in the UK – thoughts would spring forth of calling in sick, pleading with the boss to be able to work from home or going AWOL to Rio and changing my email address.

So, I knew exactly how Alba felt when she drew the curtains back yesterday morning to see the diluvio affecting the city. “Go in late,” I said, “not a soul will be on time today.” And I was right. And I busied myself with the household chores. I guess I get it, I’ve been there.

War Correspondent

How has becoming a house-husband affected me?

In truth, when I tell people of my profession as a journalist, I hope they immediately envision a crusading Byronic type striving for justice in a cruel and unforgiving world, up against the trials of self-censorship in Colombia, and jumping nimbly from police helicopters whilst reporting on illegal mining in the interior and watching officials manually pulling coca plants from the soil in the zona roja. And of course, to some extent, I do report on issues of this nature. The only difference from the aforementioned swashbuckling image is that I am no longer nimble having undergone knee surgery which has kept me for the most part housebound of late.

House Husband

I am pretty sure that I am not this happy as a house-husband

The sad truth is that I can balance all of the household chores and write from home. There has been a major evolution in news journalism. On the spot reporting is becoming less and less the norm, although when I get the chance I leap at it. So much is done from a desk and interviews over the phone. Studying an interviewee’s facial reaction to a tricky line of questioning is now a thing of the past. I count myself amongst those journalists who thrive on observations, descriptions, imagery, legwork and investigation. For me it is a thrill to spend days in the National Archives finding some long lost detail. Is this completely disappearing? I guess not. Although watching the news and seeing the importance placed on “celebrity reporting”, real time updates, blogs (of course) and articles in the press that have been swiped from press releases with startling alacrity, one despairs somewhat.

So, I have had to evolve. It wasn’t all that long ago when I took the decision to no longer go on press trips. I had tired of producing semi advertorial shtick for glossy publications. It’s great to see your name in print, but, surely this has to be under your own conditions. I am not pointing a finger and accusing colleagues of mine, who are consummate professionals, as being sell outs, no, you pick your battles and you choose your path in this industry. I respect them for it. This wasn’t for me and thankfully I have been able to make this decision albeit an a posteriori one.

Perhaps my chosen profession does not pay so much, but, I can balance it out with household chores. I hasten to add, I’m not yet a “stay at home dad.”

I have started tuning in to internet radio and listening to talk shows, my social life revolves around a course I am enrolled in on the weekends, but, perhaps in more of a cultural expression of my heritage, in place of watching mid-afternoon cooking programs I am more likely to be found with the TV switched onto Fox Sports or ESPN for the midweek Premiership games.

However, must dash, I’ve noticed that we are precariously low on detergent and completely out of eggs.

Magangue, Bolivar: Home to La Gata

14 Sunday Apr 2013

Posted by Richard in Journalism, Journeys, la Casa Amarilla

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Tags

alvaro uribe, billboard, bolivar, carlos castano, cartagena, casa amarilla, corozal, DEA, enilce lopez, enilse lopez romero, FARC, Gustavo Petro, house arrest in magangue, la depresion momposina, la gata, la mojana, la silla vacia, magangue, magdalena river, mompos, mompox, paramilitaries, port of magangue, salvatore mancuso, satena, travel to mompox

As the second largest economic centre in the department of Bolivar, Magangue is a bustling, chaotic, stifling and confusing city on the banks of the Magdalena River. Economically important for the fluvial connections into the wetlands of the Mojana and the Depresion Momposina, Magangue bears the traditional hallmarks of a port town.

The port of Magangue

The port of Magangue

I have passed through Magangue on many occasions en route to Mompos but have only had to stay the night twice. I did see a blog once where a traveller wishing to come to the Casa Amarilla had to stay the night and ended up here.

My room was cheap, small and functional, far different from the aforementioned. I did not want to be in Magangue but since Satena had unhelpfully changed their timetables for flights from Bogota to Corozal, there was no way I was going to make the connections via, air, collectivo, chalupa and then further collectivo to Mompos.

But, what I really wanted to mention was something that stopped me cold in my tracks as we hurtled towards Magangue in the journey from the airport. On the outskirts, there was a huge billboard claiming the innocence of the region’s most famous and still living capa (feminine of capo), La Gata or Enilse López Romero.

the Billboard proclaiming the innocence of Enilse Lopez

the Billboard proclaiming the innocence of Enilse Lopez

The billboard declares the innocence of Enilse Lopez of all accusations and makes the claim that Magangue, Cartagena and the department of Bolivar support her. The image pictured here is from the same billboard which appeared at the same time in the area of the Mercado de Bazurto in Cartagena. And recently in both Magangue and Cartagena there were marches in support of Lopez.

Born in the town of Naranjal in Sucre in 1953 there is some confusion as to how “La Gata” started out. Wikipedia (always a bastion of reliability) suggests that she read the tarot for some before moving into gambling and informal money lending. From here things become clearer and the magazine La Silla Vacia has her with increased financial interests through the region and indeed with strong links through friendship and business with the infamous  Gonzalo Rodríguez Gacha ‘El Mexicano’.

Her husband and father were kidnapped by the FARC and her three brothers were killed by the guerrilla group. There are significant references to her connections to paramilitary leaders Salvatore Mancuso and Carlos Castaño.

zipping in to Magangue

zipping in to Magangue

Lopez donated 100 million pesos to Alvaro Uribe’s first presidential campaign.

Gustavo Petro, before he became Mayor of Bogota, revealed this fact.

There are claims that the Lopez family possesses some 65 properties and more than 150 bank accounts. In all truth the list of possible offenses purported to have been authorized or overseen by La Gata and her entourage runs incredibly long. There is just so much money, power and influence involved that La Gata just seems to keep on getting away with it all apart from the supposed order for the killing of a toll booth worker Amaury Fabián Ochoa in 2000 near to Carmen de Bolivar for his alleged links to the FARC.

This blog was never meant to turn out this way, perhaps draw some light for those travelers coming through Magangue to Mompos, so that they know a little about the contemporary history of the place and don’t just wistfully or whimsically pass on through on a backpacking jaunt.

Politics is bought here in Colombia, how an earth can someone who has been convicted, is under house arrest for 40 odd years command everything? Who oversees the march and the erection of the billboards in Cartagena and Magangue? Where is the rule of “legitimate” law?

March in support of La Gata in Magangue

March in support of La Gata in Magangue

For now Enilse Lopez is under house arrest in Magangue. Rumour has it she was looking for a safe house in Mompos. Other sources say that the DEA is possibly going to request her extradition to the USA. But, I suggest it to you that whatever order comes through, she’ll find a way to slip around it…most probably due to her widely reported health problems.

Magangue, Bolivar: Home to La Gata

Trying Ayahuasca or Yage: the Hallucinogenic Brew from the Amazon

01 Friday Mar 2013

Posted by Richard in Journalism, Journeys

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Tags

amazon, ayahuasca, burroughs, ceremonies, huxley, iquitos, the scrib, yage

Trying Ayahuasca in Peru

Trying Ayahuasca in Peru

I figured, I’d link my first article for the entertaining website the Scrib here on my website. For those thinking of trying yage/ ayahuasca please read this and feel free to comment. This is not for everyone, and please, be sure to investigate the proposed shamanic retreat and be safe.

Not normally one for any substance of this sort, I was convinced by my friend (mentioned in the piece) and her parents when we were in her hometown of Iquitos, Peru. This is their culture and it was to be an honour for me. I did experience quite a strong reaction, it was something I would not care to repeat and I can safely say that I did not feel “right” for the next couple of days.

There are many places to experience the ceremony, but, it is not for me to list them here. You need to check everything out thoroughly, there was a case a year or so ago about an American youngster dying and the shaman trying to cover his tracks by burying his body in the jungle.

 

 

 

 

What is a Colombianada?

16 Wednesday Jan 2013

Posted by Richard in Journeys

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Tags

colombianada, funny, what is a colombianada?

A “Colombianada” is usually something humorous that has taken place here in Colombia and shows the Colombian ability to laugh at his fellow national and himself. This is not pejorative and neither is it insulting, just as in the same way you can have a “mexicanada” or a “peruanada“.

Check this Colombianada out that I saw yesterday on the road from Mompos back to Bogota yesterday. I couldn’t believe my luck!

a great Colombianada

a great Colombianada

Thankfully we  now know it’s a Renault 9.

For further Colombianadas please see this site.

 

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